Looking for the right products or ingredients to treat acne and don’t know where to start? This article will discuss retinoids for acne, specifically what a retinoid is, how to apply it, and recommended products at varied price points.

A retinoid, optimally retinoic acid, is vital to help clear acne but until recently was not available for over the counter purchase. This makes it super easy to overlook and a lot of people don’t know it’s available to add to your regimen at home! 

Commonly individuals seek benzoyl peroxide or salicylic acid over the counter. These 2 ingredients are warranted to treat acne, but will not get rid of clogged pores, or blackheads.

The only topical that will get rid of those pesky blackheads, or the skin colored bumps that don’t seem to budge, is a vitamin A derivative.

To learn more about acne, check out my comprehensive acne post. I go into a ton of detail about the different types of acne and how it’s treated.

What Is A Retinoid & How Does It Work?

Retinoids are the only product that will keep your pores cleaned out. Even when the acne is not flared, application of this topical will prevent future breakouts.

Forms of retinoids are chemicals derived from vitamin A. Other common names include retinol esters, retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinoid acid. Below is a photo from @skinchemy on Instagram and I couldn’t explain it better. Check out her Instagram for more super educational graphics on skincare!

Vitamin A is naturally occurring in the body and skin. When applied to the skin topically, it prevents collagen breakdown, speeds up cell production and turnover rate,  promotes hydration of the skin, decreases oil production, reverses pigmentation, and stops acne breakouts. So, why wouldn’t you want this in your skincare arsenal!?

When used to treat acne, especially in youthful skin, the benefits you are looking for is to clean clogged pores out, control oil production, and prevent or reverse scarring.

This post is specifically talking about retinoids for acne, although anytime incorporating a product into your skincare routine, ask yourself why you need it. Understanding how the product will benefit the skin and what condition needs to be treated, will help you select the right one.

The most effective retinoid for acne is in the form of retinoic acid as it is the strongest form. As stated before, there is a retinoic acid available over the counter whereas previously only attainable by prescription (Differin 0.1% Gel).

Some skin types cannot handle retinoic acid. If your skin is dry at baseline and easily becomes irritated, you may not be able to tolerate the strong form of retinoid. Instead, try a step down in the form of retinaldehyde or retinol. It will take longer to clear the acne, but your skin will be able to tolerate it. 

How To Apply A Retinoid & Mistakes To Avoid

How you apply the retinoid selected is vital to the success of your skincare routine. If applied incorrectly, you will become too irritated and have to pause everything until healed.

• A retinoid should always be applied in the evening due to increased sun sensitivity. 
• If using a cream or gel, only a pea size drop is warranted. Yes, as small as a pencil eraser is all you need. Too much product can lead to irritation.
• Follow with a hydrating, gentle moisturizer to balance the skin and avoid irritation. 
• Avoid around the eyes, corners of the nose and mouth as these are the most sensitive areas of the face. 

If you feel as if you are avoiding these areas but still irritated in any of the three, try applying your moisturizer prior to the retinoid to serve as a buffer. Applying the moisturizer after can unknowingly spread the product over the sensitive areas.

Products Recommended

The below products recommended are categorized by skin type. Always assess your skin before adding a product to ensure the best success. If you’re sensitive and dry, you shouldn’t select the strongest retinoid out there to get faster results. 

Skincare is not a one size fits all and should be approached with patience. 

Understanding trial and error is essential to building an effective and lasting skincare routine is so important. 

Listen to your skin. You may need a few products depending on the season for each step. You will be able to figure this out over time. For example, in the summer I use a different moisturizer than in winter or I step my retinoid down in the winter because my skin becomes more dry.

This took years for me to get just right and understand my skin’s needs. Be patient with yourself, you will get a hold of it in no time!

Retinoids

Differin is the strongest over the counter form of retinoid you can find. I recommend this topical to anyone with normal, combination, or oily skin. The only person that cannot tolerate this is the person that tells me immediately they are so dry and sensitive to products.

If you feel dry at baseline or know you become irritated easily,  a retinol is more suitable for you. Once your skin acclimates to the retinol and is tolerated nightly without peeling, you can increase to Differin. 

My absolute favorite retinol actually comes in the form of pads, which is super convenient when traveling. I see a lot of celebrities or influencers recommending this exact product. Dr. Dennis Gross Peel Pads come in two different forms: Universal (aka gentle) and Extra Strength. If you are worried about irritation start with the universal and work up to extra strength.

A natural alternative to retinoids is bakuchiol and has taken the skincare world by storm as of late. It is safe during pregnancy and more mild on the skin. It is not a retinoid, but produces similar effects naturally. 

Moisturizers

To avoid irritation apply a moisturizer before or after in the evening. 

Toleriane Ultra Soothing Face Moisturizer is a great, affordable, basic moisturizer suitable for sensitive skin types.

Avene A-Oxitive Cream is soothing and contains other active ingredients to combat oxidative damage.

SkinCeuticals Triple Lipid Restore is my holy grail high end product for moisture. Every single person I recommend this to sings it’s praises as well. It is so moisturizing. It has a 5 STAR review rating from dermstore.com with 655 reviews!

Morning moisturizer with SPF is warranted for a few reasons. As mentioned earlier, a retinoid will increase your skin’s sensitivity to the sun even when not directly applied in the morning. 

The sun is responsible for the majority of oxidative damage to the skin such as pigmentation changes. When your acne is healing it is imperative you apply SPF in the morning to prevent dark spots and scars from forming. 

Dry: Elta UV Elements (Tinted)

Oily/Combination: Elta UV Clear