How To Build A Skincare Routine: Step By Step Guide

Ever wanted the perfect step-by-step skincare routine but don’t know how to get it? You’re in the right place! I can teach you how to build a skincare routine for your specific needs. 

Each step will be detailed enough to explain the why and I’ll link products for you to choose from. The products recommended are products I have used, but also recommend to patients and do get great feedback.

 I will try to link different price points for each step as I know everyone has a budget and that’s okay! Trust me, I get it. I know it’s hard to invest in something, initially, when you don’t even know if it will benefit you.

As discussed in my acne post, the bare minimum skincare routine would have 3 steps morning and night. However, in this post I am going to list out all steps that are a possibility to even the most skin savvy individuals. With that being said, you do not have to have 6 steps morning and night! 3 steps will do, so if you want to start with 3 and see how your skin responds, go for it!

Morning

Step 1: Cleanse

You will simply be cleansing your pores and removing any excess dirt, oils, makeup, etc you have accumulated over the hours after your previous skincare ritual. 

Because in the morning you will more than likely be only washing off natural oils of the skin and remaining product from the night before, I usually don’t choose a cleanser with any active ingredients.

Ask yourself a few questions before selecting a cleanser: Am I constantly oily or dry? (It’s okay to be both). Do I become more dry when using skincare products? Do I like soaps that lather versus don’t?

Keep in mind, cleansers that lather or foam contain alcohol and are more drying! They can strip your skin’s natural oils which can cause irritation.

Dry/Sensitive: Toleriane Hydrating Cleanser, SkinCeuticals Replenishing Cream Cleanser

Oily: Effaclar Facial Wash for Oily Skin, SkinCeuticals LHA Cleanser

Combination: Toleriane Purifying Foaming Cleanser

Step 2: Essence/Toner

An essence or toner is basically a liquid with an active ingredient, most commonly an acid, to better absorb what you put on after. You must be careful, though, because too many active ingredients could irritate.

If you already have an acidic wash, in my opinion, there is no need for a toner!

I’m going to get a little technical here… I do have the Caudalie Essence with glycolic acid in it. The reason I occasionally use this is because I know the glycolic molecule is the smallest AHA/BHA molecule and will penetrate the deepest. If I put my vitamin C on over the essence, I know it will be more potent. The glycolic acid will penetrate deeper than any other acid, with the vitamin C following it into the skin.

Just listen to your skin… I only recommend an essence/toner if you are super oily and need the extra cleanse OR if you are a skincare vet and are acclimated to multiple active ingredients.

Normal/Oily: Caudalie Vinoperfect Brightening Glycolic Essence

Acne Prone: Neutrogena Rapid Clear Pads

Step 3: Eyes

Choose from 2 different options for eye treatment: Vitamin C or strictly moisture. I, personally, just use one for moisture because I feel the Vitamin C serum gets the job done to reverse the oxidative damage. 

Moisture/Dark Circles: SkinCeuticals AGE Eye Complex , Toleriane Ultra Soothing Eye Cream

Brightening: Ole Henriksen Banana Brightening Gel, SkinCeuticals AOX Eye Gel, Toleriane Redermic C Eyes 

Step 4: Serum/Oil

A serum, most of the time, is water based and used solely for the active ingredient. The main difference between a serum and moisturizer is the serum lacks thickening and moisturizing ingredients and contains high concentrations of an active ingredient. Vitamin C is the active ingredient you want in the morning because this is going to prevent oxidative damage to the skin (fine lines, dark spots, inflammation, etc) and brightens the complexion. 

I add an extra serum of Hyaluronic Acid for a boost of hydration over my Vitamin C.

Hyaluronic Acid is a natural substance found in the skin although as we age 

Hyaluronic Acid Serum: Skinceuticals HA Intensifier, La Roche-Posay Hyalu B5 Hyaluronic Acid Anti Aging Serum

Vitamin C Serum: Skinceuticals CE Ferulic, Skinceuticals Serum 10, La Roche-Posay Redermic Pure Vitamin C10 Serum

La Roche-Posay Redermic C is not a serum but super affordable Vitamin C Lotion!

Step 5: Moisture

Hands down, the most important step. You must have a morning moisturizer with zinc (at least 6% to be exact). 

If you invest in all of the above, and below, skincare but do not apply zinc in the morning you are wasting your money! Seriously, research shows the number one anti-ager is wearing a good sunscreen every single morning.

 I could get on a soap box about this but here is my quick spiel….

You come into contact with the sun EVERY. SINGLE. DAY.

 In your car, walking to and from buildings, and through the window. I have patients I remove skin cancers on that work indoors, and always have (never a “sun worshiper” as most people say). 

The sun causes oxidative damage to your skin every day, which basically means inflammation, collagen, and skin cell disruption. These things are what cause the acne, rosacea, dark spots, skin cancers, etc..

Not only is zinc a physical block from the UV rays, it’s also very calming (same thing in baby’s diaper rash cream if you think about it). Zinc will help to reverse the dryness from any active ingredients.

Again, anytime you are selecting a product for your skin you should take into account you skin type: oily, dry, combination, and the other products you are applying

Dry: Elta UV Elements (Tinted)

Oily/Combination: Elta UV Clear

Evening

Step 1: Cleanse

I remove my makeup before I wash my face. Some washes can remove makeup while cleansing although I find that most don’t. Therefore I go ahead and just make sure all makeup is removed so the cleanser I am using works optimally.

Here are my two favorite products for makeup removal: Garnier Micellar Water, La Roche Posay Effaclar Wipes

Most people will use the same cleanser morning and night but sometimes I switch mine depending on how my skin feels.

For example, at night I feel like I do need more active ingredients in my cleanser especially if it’s summer and I’m a little more oily or I am actively breaking out.

Dry/Sensitive: La Roche Posay Toleriane Hydrating Cleanser, SkinCeuticals Replenishing Cream Cleanser

Oily: Effaclar Facial Wash for Oily Skin, SkinCeuticals LHA Cleanser

Combination: Toleriane Purifying Foaming Cleanser

Step 2: Essence/Toner

I more commonly use an essence or toner at night so my vitamin A will penetrate deeper but I do have patients that will use it in the morning as well to make their vitamin C more potent.

Normal/Oily: Caudalie Vinoperfect Brightening Glycolic Essence

Acne Prone: Neutrogena Rapid Clear Pads

Step 3: Eyes

Choose from 2 different options for eye treatment: Vitamin C or strictly moisture. I, personally, just use one for moisture because I feel the Vitamin C serum in the morning gets the job done to reverse the oxidative damage. 

Moisture/Dark Circles: SkinCeuticals AGE Eye Complex , Toleriane Ultra Soothing Eye Cream

Brightening: Ole Henriksen Banana Brightening Gel, SkinCeuticals AOX Eye Gel, Toleriane Redermic C Eyes 

Step 4: Vitamin A

The most important active ingredient at night is a Vitamin A. This is going to increase cell turnover rate and, in turn, keep your pores cleaned out! This is what gets rid of those pesky blackheads.

Not only does it combat acne, it reduces fine lines and wrinkles along with decreasing the appearance of pores.

There are over the counter Retinols (non-prescription and more mild) but more recently the most mild form of Differin (Adapalene) has gone over the counter.

Warning: This will dry you out when you start applying the first few weeks. Stick with it as long as you are not burning. If you start to become too irritated and burn we need to look into a more mild form.

Tip: Make sure you are adequately moisturizing after applying and this will ensure you do not get too irritated!

Strongest over the counter: Differin Gel

Gentle Over the Counter: Skinceuticals Retinol

Dr Dennis Gross Peel Pads are another favorite of mine and super easy to travel with the individual pouches! Once your skin acclimates, you can increase to the Extra Strength

Step 5: Serum/Oil

I like to apply facial oils at night because they are so moisturizing. If you are nervous about this step clogging your pores (I haven’t had an issue nor have any of my patients that I’ve recommended to) just use a hyaluronic acid serum!

Dehydrated skin: Herbivore Phoenix Cell Regenerating Facial Oil

Acne Prone skin: Herbivore Lapis Balancing Facial Oil

Hyaluronic Acid Serum: Skinceuticals HA Intensifier, La Roche-Posay Hyalu B5 Hyaluronic Acid Anti Aging Serum

Step 6: Moisturize

I will forgo this step if I am using oils at the time, unless I feel I need the extra moisture!

Toleriane Ultra Soothing Face Moisturizer

 Avene A-Oxitive Cream